My trip to Iran was amazing. I was a little scared of going because of the political situation, especially as an American, but I didn't have any problems at all (aside from routine fingerprinting at the airport... and by the way the US does the same to Iranians).
Life in Iran was in fact more open than I expected. As you can see in my photos, rules on female dress are relatively relaxed compared to 20 years ago and to say, Saudi Arabia. Basically you have to wear a headscarf, and a long sleeve overcoat called a monto. Half the women in Tehran wear stylish or bright colored scarves that are worn so far back they're practically falling off (and it's not a big deal if it does fall off for a second). These women also tend to wear formfitting montos and expertly applied makeup. When I asked why they wear so much makeup they explained it's one of the only ways they can physically express themselves in public.
The other half of the women, who are more religious and traditional, often wear black headscarves with no hair showing, or long black sheets called chadoors (it's not a burka though, their faces are showing, not just their eyes!).
Even though I'm fluent in Farsi and am familiar with Iranian culture, in Iran I felt like I was in another world. There's so much more to Iran than the dress code and the government. As a more collectivistic society than the US, Iranians seem somehow closer with each other. Family units seem tighter, adult children usually don't move out until they get married. Same sex Friends are more physically affectionate with each other, usually kissing three times on the cheek as a greeting, and just touching each other more (yes even men).
Even 'strangers' seem much friendlier with each other, and politeness is to an extreme you only see in old British culture. When asking the price to pay for bread or a taxi ride, the customary response is 'oh it was nothing'... of course you do need to pay, but still!
The attitude toward foreigners in Iran is very very positive, especially to Americans (which is a contrast to how I feel a little looked down on here in Europe)! My cousin's friends were happy to meet me and chat about life and our cultures. And just in general people in Iran seem to love having visitors come stay with them. so being a guest in Iran is really the way to go. I felt pampered the whole time.
Another big thing I noticed was that people seemed to enjoy their time more. Sitting around with the family, talking, dancing (at home), eating together, they go on picnics and walks together regularly. Their stress levels seem lower, or maybe my perspective was skewed because I was on vacation!
Some key things are different between the west and Iran, but honestly many more things are the same. Probably the most striking difference, after the dress code, is the driving!! Think the opposite of Germany...the driving is totally chaotic and anything goes (including driving in the middle of two lanes, and backing up on the freeway.
Hope this gives a taste of Iran! If you have an opportunity to go I highly recommend it. You will be treated like royalty and have the chance to see inside a culture most people never get to see.
